Clothes Minded: The Human Jean Tome

I firmly believe that there is no reason that people should not look put together on a daily basis (at the very least). This series is designed to outline basic steps anyone can take to improve their everyday wardrobe easily. I love clothes and am often asked for help in the style department by my friends and family. Over the years, I have developed some fairly basic principles regarding fashion that can help anyone improve their style. These are tips to help you develop your own style; they should give you the tools to assess clothing and make choices that will work best for you, whatever your income, body type, or personality.

I get terribly upset when I see people wearing a nice outfit but something (or everything) is the wrong size because it looks sloppy and careless. Fit is one of the things about style that makes a world of difference if it is paid attention to. It can instantly create a more put-together look. I know, easier said than done, but there a few things you can do that can make a shopping trip successful so that you end up with a fitted wardrobe.

The only sure way to combat ill-fitting clothing is to try things on because no one is one size. Different clothing brands are different sizes and even one brand's size can vary. Many clothes are cut with a die (essentially a large punch), which causes the pieces at the bottom to be a slightly larger size than the top ones, and in certain articles of clothing this can make a huge difference. You must remember that no one is "a medium"-the sizes in clothes should be used as jumping off points for general guidance, but never the reason you buy an item.

It is hard to argue that one of the most difficult articles of clothing to shop for is jeans. So I have decided to dedicate this installment of Clothes Minded to pants, and more specifically jeans, and how to find the right pair of pants for you. No matter your shape or size, a perfectly fitting pair of jeans is hard to find. You have to consider style, cut, size, length, color, pocket design and a million other things when finding the right pair of jeans. The only thing you can do is try all of them on. It is probably the most dreaded thing about shopping, but it is essential. If you don't try the jeans on, you will go home having spent way too much money on a pair of jeans that you will rarely (or never) wear because there is something off about them. You should be comfortable in your jeans; both in how they feel on you and how you feel in them, because jeans are something you are going to wear a lot.

There are a few things you can do to make the process of shopping for pants and jeans more tolerable and one of them is to bring along a cheering section; people who will be supportive, encouraging and most of all, honest. A cheering section is always recommended for any shopping trip as this team can offer opinions on if something looks good on you-your team should know you and have slightly better insight into your style than a salesperson. My team is often made up of my two sisters and my awesome Mom, and we really do help each other out. You should always plan your shopping trip when you have a few hours that you can dedicate to the task; if you are rushed you will likely end up getting something that is unsatisfactory. I also highly suggest shopping at a place that specializes in their denim and with salespeople who know how the denim will wear.

Specifically with the fit of jeans there are a few things that should always be considered, and the rise of the jeans is among the most important. Make sure your jeans sit where you want them to, not too low and not too high. Depending on your body type this will change because different rises flatter and fit in different ways. The rise is one of the only things that cannot be altered on jeans, so it should be considered carefully. The next thing to pay attention to is the fit through the thighs; women have a tendency to buy jeans much too tight in the thighs, which makes your thighs appear larger than they are because it looks like they have been sucked into a pair of jeans. They should fit close to the thigh but not be skintight. Jeans will also stretch with a little bit of wear, so it is okay for your jeans to be slightly tight when they are bought, with the expectation that they will loosen quickly (again, ask the salesperson if this denim does or not stretch). The waist and length are easily altered so if you cannot find a pair of jeans you can wear out of the store, appraise them by the other criteria first and then go to a tailor and have them alter the garment however you need. Some denim specific stores even offer this service with purchase, which is a good option if you have problems with jeans. Here are some general guidelines for choosing a rise based on different body types.

• For pear-shaped women (who carry their weight around their thighs): A medium or high-rise jean is ideal for you. It will accentuate your curves in your lower half while highlighting your thinner waistline. A bootcut leg or something similar with a bit of volume at the bottom will help to balance out your overall proportions.
• For apple-shaped women (who carry their weight around their mid-section): You will want to stick to a regular rise as it will sit at a narrower part of your body and also fit your thinner legs. You will also need some volume in the pant to add some volume to your lower half. A straight leg that goes directly down from the thigh is going to look really flattering on your shape, especially in trousers. For jeans, a bootcut or similar is a good choice.
• For Petite Women: A mid-rise will be ideal because a low rise will create a shorter leg line, and a high rise will give you the look of a shorter torso. Avoiding these rises will help to not crop your body (either torso or leg line) and help create the look of length. The cut should emphasize a long leg line, so straight leg, skinny leg, or a small bootcut will work best.
• For Tall and Skinny Women: Congratulations, you can basically wear anything. Enjoy.

Finally, invest in your jeans, but don't go crazy. For a very long time I resisted more expensive denim because I thought "I'm fine, I can find jeans that fit well enough and I don't have to spend $100," but I have since realized, it is worth it to put a bit more money than I would normally spend (especially because I am a broke student) because jeans are something you wear most days and they will last longer if you buy higher quality. Always remember to follow the care instructions on your new jeans (especially if you are spending a bit more money on them) because failing to do so is the quickest way to ruin the fit you have worked so hard to find.

Check out these other style articles from the Clothes Minded series:

Dressing for the Holidays

Colour me Appropriate

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